With the action in mind taken by the European Missionary Council that called for Ellen White and W. C. White "to visit Scandinavia, Great Britain, and other fields, and to remain sufficiently long in Europe to do the work Providence has assigned them" (Ibid., November 3, 1885), she slipped out and purchased a lightweight book with 194 blank pages, lightly ruled. On the flyleaf she wrote:
Mrs. E. G. White, Bale, Switzerland. This book is to give incidents of my travel in Europe, 1885-1886.
Her first entry bears the date of September 25, 1885, and picks up the story of the European Missionary Council in session. It is a valuable book, particularly to the biographer as he attempts to trace her journeys and experience in Europe. The account of her work there, in this present volume, can pick up only the high points of her fruitful labor. [A detailed account of Ellen White's two years in europe is presented in the volume Ellen G. White in europe, prepared in the White Estate offices by D. A. Delafield and published by the review and herald.]
The summer months, rather than early winter, would have been far more favorable for her visit to the countries of northern Europe, where the work of the church was developing quite nicely. But there was some uncertainty as to how soon she would return to America. So at the close of the council the decision was reached calling for her to start on the rounds almost immediately. Of this she wrote:
We felt that the safest course was to visit the leading churches in Scandinavia at the earliest opportunity. The condition of some of these churches had been presented to me in years past, with many things showing that Denmark, Norway, and Sweden were promising fields of labor. We knew that a great work lay before the missionaries in this field. They desired our counsel about the different branches of the work, and we felt that we could advise with them to much better advantage after making them a visit. It seemed unwise to postpone till another summer this part of the work which we had made the long journey from America to accomplish.--Historical Sketches of the Foreign Missions of the Seventh-day Adventists, 174.
Consequently, on October 6, just one week after the council closed, the party of four left Basel--Ellen White, W. C. White, Sara McEnterfer, and Cecile Dahl. Cecile was from Christiania (Oslo), Norway, and would serve as guide and interpreter. It was an overnight trip to Frankfurt, Germany, then on to Hamburg. At Kiel, on the Baltic Sea, they took the ferry to Denmark. Ellen White found this trip through the northern countries an interesting experience.
Visit to Denmark
They were met Thursday morning at Copenhagen, Denmark, by J. G. Matteson. He took the travelers to his home and led them up six flights of stairs to the apartment occupied by his family. While it was somewhat of a struggle to get to the apartment, once there Ellen White found it afforded a fascinating view:
Just across the street were beautiful grounds which had the appearance of an extensive park or garden. We were somewhat surprised to learn that it was a cemetery. The tombstones were mostly concealed from view by trees and shrubbery. Evergreen hedges separated the enclosures, and choice flowers and shrubs were scattered everywhere. Close by was the large botanical garden and floral nursery, containing rare trees and shrubs, and the most beautiful flowers in almost endless variety.
Toward the sea we saw the huge windmills used for grinding grain. A little to the right is the glistening dome of the Greek church. This dome, we are told, is overlaid with gold.--Ibid., 179, 180.
Seventh-day Adventists in Copenhagen worshiped in a little hall on the fourth story of a building not far from the Matteson apartment. Friday evening Ellen White spoke to about thirty-five who assembled there. A third of these constituted the local church group; the others came in from adjacent churches. Her topic was "The Parable of the Fig Tree." She found the hall to be damp and cold, but Sabbath morning she was back. Although suffering from some teeth that had been improperly treated, a problem accentuated by the cold and dampness of the hall, she spoke to the well-filled room on "The True Vine."
Halls where religious meetings might be held were difficult to secure in Denmark, but one was found, a basement room capable of seating two hundred but equipped for only half that number. Meetings were held each evening throughout the week. One evening, attempts were made by half-intoxicated rowdies to break up the meeting. Commented Ellen White, "If it is necessary to speak in such places, we will do so cheerfully." She added an interesting note:
There were some in the audience who seemed deeply interested, persons of talent whose countenances I remembered, for they had been presented before me. These persons had been pleasure lovers, enshrouded in darkness and error, but God was permitting beams of light to shine upon them from His Word.... I felt such an intense interest while speaking to these souls that I lost sight of my surroundings; I felt that some were in the valley of decision, and I longed to see them take their stand fully and decidedly upon the side of Christ.--Ibid., 183.
As there was opportunity, she, Willie, and Sara were guided by Matteson in some sightseeing. She admired the broad streets, the spacious ground around large buildings, and the "ships standing in the inlet of water, crowded as thick as possible" (Manuscript 25, 1885). But she found Copenhagen a city in dire need of Christ's saving power. She spoke five times while there, and then the traveling worker group left by ship for Sweden.
Visit to Sweden
"We left Copenhagen this morning," wrote Ellen White in her diary for Thursday, October 15, on the steamer for Malmo, Sweden (Manuscript 21, 1885).
Both her diaries and letters abound in references to the historical and religious significance of cities and towns she passed through or visited. She gleaned information from brochures and by visiting with those familiar with the circumstances.
A night's trip by train took them to Stockholm, where they were met by a Brother Norlin, who took the worker group to his home. Ellen White wrote of him as one who, in humble circumstances, was earnestly seeking to spread the knowledge of the truth, laboring as a colporteur:
Shouldering his pack, stocked with our books and papers, he goes on foot from place to place, often traveling many miles a day. His profits have been very small.... On one of the large bound books [imported from America] he received but five cents a copy, on some other books only three cents. On those works published at our office in Christiania he received one-third discount....
Brother Norlin's wife is an industrious worker, doing housecleaning, washing, or any other kind of hard work by which she can help in gaining a livelihood. They live in a very economical manner, occupying one good-sized room on a fourth floor, with the use of a small kitchen with another family.--Ibid., 189.
After pointing out that this is a sample of how the work had to be done in Denmark, Sweden, and Norway, she declared:
Those who are thus traveling on foot and carrying the books and papers in their leathern sacks are apparently engaged in a humble work; but they should not feel that it is in any sense degrading. It was in a humble manner that Christ labored when he was on the earth; He went on foot from place to place, teaching as He walked. Those who are spreading a knowledge of the truth are scattering precious light that some souls will accept. In the kingdom of God the fruit of their labors will be seen.--Ibid.
While in Stockholm she and Sara were entertained in the home of a Sister Johanneson, who had lived in America and could speak English quite well. It was a comfortable home, heated by tall earthen stoves that reached nearly to the ceiling. Ellen White much enjoyed and appreciated the comfort provided.
The worker group was in Stockholm from Friday to Wednesday morning, October 21, with meetings Friday evening, Sabbath morning, and then Sunday and Monday evenings. Of the Sabbath morning meeting held in a small public hall, Ellen White noted in her diary, "We call this a good day. The Lord strengthened me to speak to His people with clearness and power." She then referred to prevailing sentiments she met:
There is a spurious experience that is prevailing now everywhere in regard to the love of Jesus--that we must dwell on the love of Jesus, that faith in Jesus is all we need--but these souls must be instructed that the love of Jesus in the heart will lead to humility of life and obedience to all His commandments....
Those who reject the truth of the Bible do it under a pretense of loving Jesus. Those who love Jesus will reveal that love by being obedient children. They will be doers of the Word and not hearers only. They will not be continually pleading, "All that we have to do is to believe in Jesus." This is true in the fullest sense, but they do not comprehend, they do not take it in its fullest sense. To believe in Jesus is to take Him as your Redeemer, as your Pattern. All who love Jesus must follow His example."--Manuscript 26, 1885.
Before the meeting that Sabbath morning, Matteson thought to give her a little guidance in the matter of the subject she should present. His suggestion was:
That it would please the people if I speak less about duty and more in regard to the love of Jesus. But I wish to speak as the Spirit of the Lord shall impress me. The Lord knows best what this people needs. I spoke in the forenoon from Isaiah 58. I did not round the corners at all. If this is Brother Matteson's work, let him do it, but it is not my work. My work is to elevate the standard of piety and true Christian life, and urge the people to put away their sins and be sanctified through the truth. I tried to impress them with the necessity of strictly observing the Sabbath according to the commandment.--Ibid.
In the social meeting that followed the sermon, the people expressed their thankfulness that the Lord sent them help from America, and revealed their gratitude to God for the truth and for the increased light Mrs. White had given them. They could see, they said, as they had not done before, "the necessity of greater strictness in keeping the Sabbath and could sense the offensive character of sin, and they would make earnest efforts to put sin away" (Ibid.).
After a successful meeting Sunday night, with the hall crowded and many standing, Ellen White expressed her disappointment in the unfavorable accommodations. The repetition of such experiences led her to appeal for more faith and vision as to what could be done if proper preparations were made.
The visit to Sweden included a few days at Grythyttehed, 150 miles northwest of Stockholm, and then Orebro, meeting with companies of believers at each place. In imagination she relived the days of the reformation, and then the preaching of the Advent message in Sweden in 1842 and 1843, when the mouths of those who would herald the message were closed by authorities. In these circumstances the power of God came upon several children, and they heralded the message and called upon the people to get ready. [See The Great Controversy, 366, 367.] After reviewing the experience, she wrote in her account of her visit to Sweden:
Years ago, the work of the first [angel's] message in these countries was presented before me, and I was shown circumstances similar to those related above. It was God's will that the tidings of the Saviour's coming should be given in Sweden, and when the voices of His servants were silenced, He put His spirit upon the children, that the work might be accomplished.--Historical Sketches of the Foreign Missions of the Seventh-day Adventists, 206.
She had an opportunity to see firsthand the adverse circumstances of many in regard to the Sabbath. She wrote:
Worldly prosperity is not often the lot of those who receive the truth. Our brethren in America have but little idea of the difficulties to be met by those who keep the Sabbath in these countries....
Many a man works for thirty-five cents a day in the summer, and fifteen in the winter. Most of our people are poor, and it is very difficult for them to obtain work, even at low prices.... There are many who have to lift a heavy cross, and walk by faith, not by sight. Many suffer poverty and reproach; but this should not prevent them from obeying God's commandments. Their reward will be in accordance with their self-denial and sacrifice for the truth's sake.--Ibid., 194.
Appropriate Meeting Places
Those planning for the work did not know how the general public would respond to Ellen White's ministry. Working in close financial circumstances, they made what seemed to her to be inadequate provision for her meetings.
About this time Ellen White had a dream in which she seemed to overhear a conversation. The question was asked of a church worker, "How far would a light send its rays if it were placed under a bushel?"
"No farther than the compass of the bushel" was the answer.
"How far would it shine if put under a bed?"
"It would not illuminate the room," replied the one addressed. "It would be too low and too obscure."
"Then," said the questioner, "place your light on a candlestick, and it will give light to all that are in the house. Your ideas need to be enlarged and elevated. The people have lost an opportunity to obtain light that God desired them to have."
Commented Ellen White, "When the Lord sends His people help, they should show that they value it. Those who stand at the head of the work in these countries should be careful that they do not give it a narrow mold."--Ibid., 200, 201.
Christiania, Norway
The last of the northern countries to be visited before it got too late in the season was Norway. It was Friday morning, October 30, when they reached Christiania (Oslo), and were taken to the home of A. B. Oyen, the minister sent from Battle Creek to Norway to engage in the translation of the Ellen G. White books. It was a bit of a relief to Ellen White to be residing in the home of English-speaking friends. Lest she be misunderstood, she hastened to record in her diary that "although we were welcomed and treated with every attention by our Danish and Swedish brethren and sisters, we felt all the time crippled because we could not converse together, and it was thus made impossible to do them all the good we much desired to do."--Manuscript 27, 1885. She described the activities on the Sabbath:
Sabbath was a pleasant day. I spoke to the people in the hall where the church met to worship, from 1 Peter 1:13-17. I had freedom in presenting to the people the importance of practical godliness. All listened with great attention. The hall was full. In the afternoon the ordinances were administered, and the washing of feet. In the evening a discourse was given by Elder Matteson.--Ibid.
The church had a membership of 120; two hundred attended the Sabbath morning service, and one hundred were present for the ordinances Sabbath afternoon (Historical Sketches of the Foreign Missions of the Seventh-day Adventists, 207).
Two full weeks, extending over three Sabbaths, were spent in Norway. Except for meeting a speaking appointment in Drammen, the entire time was devoted to the interests in Christiania, the principal city. Here a new publishing house was under construction, a sizable building that, as in Switzerland, would provide not only space for the publishing interests but a good meeting hall and living quarters for some of the workers as well. They were in a transition period; part of the building that had been occupied for the past six years had been demolished to make room for the new, depriving them of a meeting place. The Good Templars gave to the church the free use of their hall, seating three hundred, and the meetings were held here during Ellen White's visit. Printing work continued in that part of the old building still standing.
Large Public Meetings
Plans developed for her ministry to the general public that were broad and effective. The light would not be put under a "bushel" or under a "bed." A large hall belonging to the working man's society was hired for the Sunday morning meeting. Her diary tells the story:
Sunday forenoon [November 1] I spoke in a hall to a crowded assembly. It was estimated fourteen hundred were present. The text was 1 John 3:1-3. The Lord gave me much freedom and clearness in presenting the infinite love of God in giving His Son to die for the world.
Although the aisles were crowded and every seat filled, and even standing place occupied, large numbers were obliged to go away because they could obtain no entrance. The crowd held perfect attention to the close of the discourse. We hope this effort will not be in vain, but that through Christ's help much good may be the result.--Manuscript 27, 1885.
Arrangements had been made for her to fill a speaking appointment on Tuesday evening, November 3, at Drammen, a city some thirty miles from Christiania. Here there was a church of twenty members. The largest hall in the city, capable of seating seven hundred, had been secured. It had a gallery on each side and a huge stove at each end. Regarding the speaker's platform Ellen White wrote:
There was no pulpit nor place for one. Six beer tables, brought in from an adjoining room, served to make a platform. A square carpet was thrown over this platform, and another table set on top for lightstand and pulpit, while steps were made with chairs and stools. We doubt if the hall or beer tables were ever put to so good use before. The people came and filled the seats, the galleries, and all the standing room, and listened with the best of attention while I spoke to them of the love of Christ, and His life of sacrifice.--Historical Sketches of the Foreign Missions of the Seventh-day Adventists, 207.
The train trip down had been made in heavy fog, but Wednesday morning it had lifted, disclosing, on the return trip, high bluffs, rocky mountains, lakes, and islands. There was a meeting in Christiania Wednesday evening; Thursday she spent in writing and in a visit with a building contractor by the name of Hansen, a prominent and influential member but rather liberal in his views. Ellen White described the visit as pleasant and profitable. They discussed health reform, and she related her experience in the rise and development of the work of the church. Friday evening a good meeting was held in the hall, with respectful attention given the speaker.
Counsel on High Standards
Sabbath, of course, was an important day. Ellen White had been in Christiania a full week and had the feel of the overall situation. She noted in her diary concerning the thrust of her message:
I presented before them the great need of those who teach in word and in doctrine to take heed to themselves to be very circumspect in their course of action, and in word and example seek to elevate the people to correct views and correct practices by their own habits and customs, and to be sure that in no way they belittle the requirements of God--especially the fourth commandment, which enjoins the observance of the Sabbath.--Manuscript 27, 1885.
She dwelt on the point of the Sabbath. "It is God's test," she declared.
It is no man-made test. This is to be the separating line to distinguish the loyal and the true--him that serveth God from him that serveth Him not.--Ibid.
She was concerned that professed believers were sending their children to the public school on Sabbath. "They were not compelled to do this, but because the schools objected to taking in their children unless they should attend the six days in the week."--Ibid. If they were unable to negotiate with the school authorities then, there was but one way--"to keep the Sabbath of the fourth commandment strictly," which might call for Seventh-day Adventists to establish schools among themselves. Reporting further on her Sabbath morning sermon, she stated:
God is not pleased with His people in this place, for they have belittled His holy requirement, striving to bring His law into subjection to themselves, rather than bring themselves in subjection to His law.--Ibid.
After speaking so plainly she invited those to come forward who felt they were sinners, not in harmony with God, and who needed His converting power. About fifty went forward. She then knelt before the pulpit and by request she prayed while Elder Matteson interpreted.
The Large Sunday Temperance Meeting
After spending most of Sunday, November 8, in writing, Ellen White met a five o'clock appointment in the soldiers' military gymnasium, the largest hall in the city. The president of the temperance society had extended the invitation to her to speak. As she entered the hall, she observed what she considered a special courtesy--"An American flag was placed as a canopy above the pulpit."--Ibid., 207. An audience of about 1,600 assembled, which she noted were of "the higher class of society" who had come to "hear the woman from America speak" (Manuscript 27, 1885). Among her listeners were the bishop of the state church and a number of the clergy. As the people listened with deep interest, she spoke for an hour and twenty minutes, presenting temperance in a manner they had not before heard.
I showed them that the Bible was full of history upon temperance. I showed them the part Christ had taken in temperance. It was all due to Christ that man was given a second trial after Adam's fall. Christ redeemed Adam's disgraceful failure and fall by withstanding every temptation of the wily foe. I mingled Christ in this temperance lecture from beginning to end.--Ibid.
Her lecture over, Dr. Nisson, the president of the society, profusely endorsed her presentation and introduced her to leading temperance men and women. They expressed their gratitude, and some declared that they had never listened to a temperance discourse like the one they had just heard. She was invited to address them again, but she declined, feeling that she must preserve her strength for her labors with the church during her last week there. "I feel," she said, "that our people here need my help and I must do all for them that is in my power." Revival meetings were held evenings through the week, and on some days she had interviews with members who sought her counsel.
W. C. White had not, up to this time, discussed with his mother the conviction that he should attend the 1885 General Conference session, called to convene in Battle Creek on November 18, lest it disturb her in her important work in Norway. But on Wednesday night, November 11, he broached the subject. At first she was startled and surprised, but as they talked it through, she concluded that this was the course he should follow. He could take to the General Conference a full firsthand report of the work in Europe and its needs. At three o'clock Friday afternoon he took a ferry across the North Sea en route to Liverpool, where he could catch a steamship bound for New York. He planned to return in two months.
Ellen White's Last Weekend with the Christiania Church
Ellen White had now come to her closing labors with the Christiania church. It was a crucial time, for her pointed messages through the week had called for soul searching and reform.
Sabbath morning she took her place before the congregation and spoke very earnestly upon Joshua and the angel. Mr. Hansen, the building contractor who had been lax in his views of Sabbath observance, was with his wife in the audience. Ellen White reported:
I think the minds of many were impressed. I spoke plainly in regard to the Sabbath and its importance as a part of the message. The house was full. Brother Hansen left as soon as I had done speaking.--Letter 35, 1885.
During the week she had written a sixteen-page testimony to the Christiania church. A. B. Oyen had already translated much of it. Sabbath afternoon he read to the church the portion translated. Ellen White's interest and concern is easily detected in her report to her son:
There was not time for many testimonies to be borne afterward. Brother Hansen made no response, but he sent word that he would be pleased to take me over the city on Sunday forenoon, and I responded that I would be pleased to go.
He showed me every attention and I managed to bring in again the vexed question of the Sabbath. He said he meant to get around to change his position just as soon as he could, and we had a very pleasant social time. He sat in the carriage where Sara generally sits. Annie sat beside him to interpret. He said if I would promise to come next spring he would make extra efforts to learn to talk and to understand English. I told him I thought without doubt I would come.--Ibid.
Her last meeting in Christiania was held that Sunday afternoon at three o'clock in the Good Templars' hall, where she had met with the church Sabbaths and evenings.
As she closed the service she bade the people farewell and thought to slip away, while the congregation was singing, to the carriage she saw waiting for her:
But I was not to escape so easily. There was a rush for me and one and another took my hand, kissed it, and with tears running down their faces, told me how much good my message had done them. They held my hand so firmly and lovingly I could not withdraw it readily, while others were waiting to shake hands with me. The carriage was surrounded. We just had to wait, and then I was so sorry I had not waited in the house and shaken hands with every one of them....
This last meeting left a good feeling with nearly all, and I am inclined to think that all has been done that could be done on this visit.--Ibid.
At half past six the next morning--long before daylight--she left by train. A large number of the believers, including Brother and Sister Hansen, were there to see her off.
Return Trip to Switzerland
They took the southbound train, en route to Gothenburg, Sweden. When it became light, at about nine o'clock, she enjoyed what she termed "the romantic scenery." The trip on the ferry was tempestuous--six hours to Frederickshaven, Denmark (Historical Sketches of the Foreign Missions of the Seventh-day Adventists, 221); then by train south to Germany and across Germany to Basel. They had to change trains and stayed overnight at Cologne (Koln), with little time for sightseeing. She noted in her diary:
Rode all day until seven o'clock, then the cars went no further and we stopped at Cologne. (Give description from guidebook.) We had the privilege of seeing the cathedral which had been many, many years in building. It had been finished only in recent years [1880].--Manuscript 27, 1885.
The incidental reference to the "guidebook" gives a clue as to why at times in her letters and diaries written in Europe there are found quite full descriptions of the historic points, countryside, and cities visited. In making her record complete, she drew from these sources of information.
Back home in Basel she summed up some facts about the tour:
We reached Basel [Thursday] November 19, our homeward journey having occupied four days. We were absent six weeks on this Scandinavian tour, and traveled more than twenty-five hundred miles.... Wherever we went, our people warmly expressed their gratitude for the help which had been sent them and the interest manifested in their behalf by the brethren in America.--Ibid., 225.
Ellen White was weary and worn and would have welcomed a few weeks' rest, but she found herself immediately involved in plans for another trip, this time to Italy.