Having noted the fashions of the time and the movements of the dress reformers, we should consider the attitude of Seventh-day Adventists to these questions.
Between 1840 and 1844, when the believers in the advent movement were looking for the imminent coming of Christ, they sought earnestly for such a preparation of heart and of life as would enable them to meet Him with a conscience void of offense. Many of them felt as did the youthful Ellen Harmon, who, in recounting later the experience of herself and her sisters, wrote:
"We talked the matter over among ourselves, and decided to earn what money we could, and spend it in buying books and tracts to be distributed gratuitously. This was the best we could do, and we did this little gladly. ... I had no temptation to spend my earnings for my own personal gratification. My dress was plain; nothing was spent for needless ornaments, for vain display appeared sinful in my eyes. ... The salvation of souls was the burden of my mind."--Life Sketches of Ellen G. White, 47, 48.
Adoniram Judson's Appeal
And so it was also with most Seventh-day Adventists from the earliest days of their existence as a separate people. Although neatness and durability of dress were regarded as in harmony with the mind of God, unnecessary adornment was shunned as being sinful. From time to time articles appeared in the Review and Herald counseling simplicity in dress, though the consideration of the matter from the standpoint of health was for some years subordinated to the thought of the Scriptural injunctions against pride and display. In 1855 the editor of the Review and Herald inserted as a leading article the pronouncement of John Wesley on dress in his "Advice to the People Called Methodists" (July 10, 1855); and "Judson's Letter on Dress" appeared in 1859. In this letter Adoniram Judson had appealed, from his mission in Burma, to the ladies of the home churches, because of the difficulties and embarrassments created when the Christian natives of Burma, having discarded their ornaments, would see similar decorations worn by the wives and daughters of those who came to his field as missionaries.
On May 27, 1856, at a conference of believers in Battle Creek, Michigan, a very solemn message was given for the church through the Spirit of prophecy, deploring the "conformity of some professed Sabbath-keepers to the world." It was pointed out that these "have a disposition to dress and act as much like the world as possible, and yet go to heaven."--Testimonies for the Church 1:131.
Mrs. White's Remarks on Dress
Concerning the view given her at that time, Mrs. White wrote:
"I saw that some professed Sabbath-keepers spend hours that are worse than thrown away, in studying this or that fashion, to decorate the poor, mortal body. While you make yourselves appear like the world, and as beautiful as you can, remember that the same body may in a few days be food for worms. And while you adorn it to your taste, to please the eye, you are dying spiritually. ... I saw that the outside appearance is an index to the heart. When the exterior is hung with ribbons, collars, and needless things, it plainly shows that the love for all this is in the heart; unless such persons are cleansed from their corruption, they can never see God; for only the pure in heart will see Him."--Ibid., 134, 136.
Thus for a time were set forth general principles that should govern the Christian who seeks to follow the in-injunction of the apostle against the "love of the world." The first word of opposition found in our denominational literature against a specific style of dress is in the Review and Herald of August 5, 1858, where Elder J. Byington makes the following innuendo in the form of a question and a conclusion:
"Are sleeves which are largest at the little end, and round tires like the moon, or hoops (Isaiah 3:18), articles of dress that are modest apparel? 1 Timothy 2:9. If so, let them be recommended to the church generally."
Only four ladies, apparently, ventured to respond to the question, with its implication. All these were agreed in condemning the first style, and three agreed that the wearing of hoops was a practice "unbecoming women professing godliness."
The fourth, however, expressed her opinion that the hoops were unobjectionable, and might be "recommended to the church generally in this season of the year, when used with moderation."--The Review and Herald, September 23, 1858.
In the latter part of 1861 Mrs. White said of this oddity: "Hoops, I was shown, were an abomination, and every Sabbath-keeper's influence should be a rebuke to this ridiculous fashion, which has been a screen to iniquity."--Ibid., August 27, 1861.
Hoops continued to be frequently denounced in the church paper, both by ministry and laity. The general stand of the church against them is reflected in a letter from a lady correspondent who wrote of her experience in accepting the message. At a tent meeting she asked one good sister if she could be an Adventist and continue wearing her hoops. A negative reply caused her to assert that she could not become a member if that were the case. However, after hearing a lecture on dress by Elder Waggoner, she decided that she "could lay them off forever if it would be pleasing in the sight of the Lord." Ibid., April 28, 1863.
Deplorable Physical Effects
The deplorable physical effects of the fashionable dress of that period began to receive attention about this time. Under the heading "Talks About Health" two articles appeared, both selected from the writings of Dr. Dio Lewis of Boston. In the first (November 25, 1862) he pointed out the evil effects of insufficient clothing for the limbs, and in the second (May 25, 1863) he condemned the corset and recommended a "full and loose" dress waist to be supported from the shoulders instead of the hips. The "dress reformers" who advocated the "American costume" exerted but little influence, however, upon Seventh-day Adventists, and only a few of them adopted it.
The fact that many spiritualists had adopted the Bloomer, or "American costume," and wore it at their meetings gave it an unsavory reputation in the eyes of many sincere Christians. The costume as modified was now very much shorter than when first introduced, coming barely to the knee or even higher than that, and this tended to bring it into discredit as being immodest.
It was from the standpoint of modesty and propriety that the "American costume" was first discussed by Mrs. Ellen G. White. In 1863, in writing of the "cause in the East," where some had taken extreme positions and others had run into fanaticism, she stated:
"God would not have His people adopt the so-called reform dress. It is immodest apparel, wholly unfitted for the modest, humble followers of Christ."--Testimonies for the Church 1:421.
In presenting Scriptural arguments against this extreme style, she also wrote:
"I saw that God's order has been reversed, and His special directions disregarded, by those who adopt the 'American costume.' I was referred to Deuteronomy 22:5: 'The woman shall not wear that which pertaineth unto a man, neither shall a man put on a woman's garment, for all that do so are abomination unto the Lord thy God.'"--Ibid.
The Influence of the "American Costume"
Mrs. White wrote also of the influence that might be exerted against Seventh-day Adventists were they to adopt this extreme form of dress, pointing out that they might be mistaken for spiritualists if they were to adopt it:
"Some who believe the truth may think that it would be more healthful for the sisters to adopt the 'American costume,' yet if that mode of dress would cripple our influence among unbelievers so that we could not so readily gain access to them, we should by no means adopt it, though we suffered much in consequence. ...
"Spiritualists have, to quite an extent, adopted this singular mode of dress. Seventh-day Adventists, who believe in the restoration of the gifts, are often branded as spiritualists. Let them adopt this costume, and their influence is dead. The people would place them on a level with spiritualists and would refuse to listen to them. ... There is a great work for us to do in the world, and God would not have us take a course to lessen or destroy our influence in the world."--Ibid., 421, 422.
Although the unfavorable features of the "American costume" were opened to Mrs. White and she wrote against the adoption of it by our sisters, yet she was equally clear regarding the objectionable features of the prevailing styles of dress and the need for reform. Her attention was directed to a medium position which our sisters should take, following neither the extreme mannish "American costume" nor the health-destroying, action-impeding, long, heavy dresses of the time. Introducing a call for reform, Mrs. White said:
"We do not think it in accordance with our faith to dress in the 'American costume,' to wear hoops, or to go to an extreme in wearing long dresses which sweep the sidewalks and streets. If women would wear their dresses so as to clear the filth of the streets an inch or two, their dresses would be modest, and they would be kept clean much more easily, and would wear longer. Such a dress would be in accordance with our faith."--Ibid., 424.
"There is a medium position in these things. Oh, that we all might wisely find that position and keep it."--Ibid., 425.
Basic Principles
A fuller presentation of the subject of dress was prepared by Mrs. White for the concluding and sixth article as later presented in "How to Live." In this we may discover the following basic principles upon which a true reform must be built:
1. "It is injurious to health, and, therefore, sin for females to wear tight corsets, or whalebones, or to compress the waist."--How to Live 6:57.
2. "Many females drag down the bowels and hips by hanging heavy skirts upon them. ... The female dress should be suspended from the shoulders."--Ibid., 58.
3. "The people of God, who are His peculiar treasure [should] seek even in their dress to glorify God, and by their simple style, rebuke the pride, vanity, and extravagance of worldly, pleasure-loving professors."--Ibid.
4. They should not, however, be "careless of their own apparel, ... and dress without order and taste. ... Decency and neatness" are not to be classed with pride.--Ibid., 62, 64.
5. "A greater uniformity in dress would be pleasing to God."--Ibid.
6. "The length of the fashionable female dress is objectionable for several reasons. ... The dress should reach somewhat below the top of the boot, but should be short enough to clear the filth of the sidewalk and street, without being raised by the hand."--Ibid.
7. "Whatever may be the length of the dress, females should clothe their limbs as thoroughly as the males. This may be done by wearing lined pants gathered into a band and fastened about the ankle, or made full and tapering at the bottom; and these should come down long enough to meet the shoe."--Ibid., 64.
To those who might object to such a costume on the grounds that it would be old-fashioned, Mrs. White replied with emphasis:
"What if it is? I wish we could be old-fashioned in many respects. If we could have the old-fashioned strength that characterized the old-fashioned women of past generations, it would be very desirable."--Ibid., 64.
She urged that womanhood should "manifest a noble independence, and moral courage, to be right, if all the world differ from them."--Ibid., 61, 62.
"Christians should not take pains to make themselves gazing stocks by dressing differently from the world. But if, in accordance with their faith and duty in respect to their dressing modestly and healthfully, they find themselves out of fashion, they should not change their dress in order to be like the world."--Ibid., 61.
Such were the circumstances when Elder and Mrs. White made their visit to Dr. Jackson's institution at Dansville, New York. A definite stand had been taken against hoops. Mrs. White had spoken specifically against the adoption of the "American costume" because of its immodesty, its resemblance to male attire, as being contrary to the Scriptural injunction, and because of the prejudice it would raise against those who had a solemn truth to give to the world. She deplored the ultra-long dress and recommended one short enough so that it would always clear the ground. And she was praying that God's people might find the proper medium position in these things.
Close Observation
During their three weeks' stay at Our Home, Mrs. White and her husband had opportunity to observe at close hand the mode of dress that she had formerly declared to be unsuitable for Seventh-day Adventists. Through the lectures and the literature put out by Drs. Jackson and Austin, they had opportunity to become better acquainted with the reasons for its adoption. But they were not led to alter their former counsel that it was not suitable attire for Seventh-day Adventist womanhood. It is evident, however, that they did find in their hearts a deepening conviction that they should endeavor to find a dress pattern that would be healthful in every way and yet be free from the objectionable features of the "American costume." Elder White expressed his views as follows:
"At Our Home, the ladies wear what is commonly called the short dress, which is so frequently worn in its ultra-style by brazen-faced and doubtful female spiritualists. These things have a tremendously prejudicial influence abroad against the invaluable good of this institution. We recognize the principles from which arise the valid objections to the present fashionable style of woman's dress, and look for a remedy that will save to the world her appearance as a woman, and save her from public ridicule, and to herself influence. But we have serious objections to woman's dress being so long as to constitute her a street sweeper, and we strongly incline to the opinion that existing evils in her dress can be fully removed without adopting those extremes which we sometimes witness."--Ibid., 1:17.
The Need for a Reformed Dress
A similar recognition of the need for a reformed dress that might be adopted by Seventh-day Adventist women is voiced in a letter written by Mrs. White to friends during the time of her visit to Dansville:
"They have all styles of dress here. Some are very becoming, if not so short. We shall get patterns from this place, and I think we can get out a style of dress more healthful than we now wear, and yet not be Bloomer or the 'American costume.' ... I am going to get up a style of dress on my own hook which will accord perfectly with that which has been shown me. Health demands it. Our feeble women must dispense with heavy skirts and tight waists if they value health. ...
"We shall never imitate Miss Dr. Austin or Mrs. Dr. York. They dress very much like men. We shall imitate or follow no fashion we have ever yet seen. We shall institute a fashion which will be both economical and healthful."--E. G. White Letter 1a, 1864.
It is evident from this statement that up to that time, although Mrs. White had "been shown" certain principles that should govern a reform in dress, there had been no detailed, specified pattern revealed to her. Later she consulted with other sisters in Battle Creek, Michigan, in seeking for a costume that would be consistent with the faith and practice of Seventh-day Adventists. It seems probable that it was about this time, while they were endeavoring to find such a middle-of-the-road pattern, that the vision was given in which she saw three companies of women, each with a different length of dress. Regarding this she wrote, in 1867, in reply to a question:
"The first were of fashionable length, burdening the limbs, impeding the step, and sweeping the street and gathering its filth; the evil results of which I have fully stated. This class, who were slaves to fashion, appeared feeble and languid.
"The dress of the second class which passed before me was in many respects as it should be. The limbs were well clad. They were free from the burdens which the tyrant Fashion had imposed upon the first class, but had gone to that extreme in the short dress as to disgust and prejudice good people, and destroy in a great measure their own influence. This is the style and influence of the 'American costume,' taught and worn by many at Our Home, Dansville, N.Y. It does not reach to the knee. I need not say that this style of dress was shown me to be too short.
"A third class passed before me with cheerful countenances, and free, elastic step. Their dress was the length I have described as proper, modest, and healthful. It cleared the filth of the street and sidewalk a few inches under all circumstances, such as ascending and descending steps, etc."--The Review and Herald, October 8, 1867.
Mrs. White Tries the Dress
In September, 1865, Mrs. White put on such a dress, which she wore for a time "excepting at meetings, in the crowded streets of villages and cities, and when visiting distant relatives." (Ibid.) After a time she wore it in all places and at all times.
Her example was soon followed by several of the Seventh-day Adventist women in northern Michigan, and numerous letters of inquiry came from many quarters. When she saw that some were overemphasizing the question, as a matter of prime importance, she was led to protest:
"The dress reform," she declared, "was among the minor things that were to make up the great reform in health, and never should have been urged as a testing truth necessary to salvation. It was the design of God that at the right time, on proper occasions, the proper persons should set forth its benefits as a blessing, and recommend uniformity, and union of action."--Ibid.
Mrs. White's advocacy of the health reform dress came thirteen years after Mrs. Miller, Mrs. Stanton, and Mrs. Bloomer had initiated in the United States the movement in favor of dress reform. There was scarcely a section of the country in which the voices of its friends were not heard.
It had found able and honored advocates in its favor, as well as critics and defamers. Thousands of women were rejoicing in new-found freedom and health. Yet with all that might well be said in its favor, Mrs. White presented adequate reasons given to her why it was unsuitable for Seventh-day Adventists, and she determined to help her fellow sisters to find and adopt a style of dress in harmony with that shown her, one that would avoid the extreme and unfavorable aspects of the popular reform dress and yet give freedom of action and be healthful in every way. She was not, therefore, introducing and initiating a style of costume that was so ridiculous and strange as to merit the criticisms that some in later years have been led to present in a manner that seems plausible to those who are unaware of the circumstances which have been here presented.
The particular costume adopted at the Health Reform Institute and recommended by Mrs. White was worn by many Seventh-day Adventist women for some years. The reasons for its being discarded afterward will be given in a later chapter.